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Gastronomy
The Perigord and the Aquitaine in general are known as the “kingdom of the
mouth” (royaume de geule).
From the 15th century, the pates of Perigueux were already well known. King
Louis XV knighted the perigourdian chef Villereynier after he came into royal
favour, he became “Villereynier of La Gatine, patissier of the King”
During the revolution, the great masters Lafon and Courtois continued to
provide their partridge pates to both France and England. Up until then,
perigourdian pates were made of partridges that had been fed on chicken and
duck livers and chopped truffles. Afterwards, “pave” (slabs) of pate were made
with truffled goose livers according to teachings in 1726 by Mr Close, the chef
of the Mr Talleyrand, marquis of Contades, governor of Strasbourg. Talleyrand,
with his strong attachments to the Perigord, won the hardest of diplomatic
battles around a sumptuous table serving his truffled pate and Monbazillac wine
– his most worthy allies! This rich cuisine uses the produce of the territory:
truffles, cepes, nuts and in particular geese, ducks and pigs which are the
pride of the farms in the region.
Wine
The region produces both white and red wines.
Amongst the regions white wines is the Monbazillac. Golden, smooth and
perfumed, this wine can be served as an aperitif or with foie gras and
desserts. It owes its particular bouquet to its’ noble fermentation process
which reduces the acidity of the grape: the procedure dates back to the
Renaissance: the grape harvest is done, as with the Sauternes, in several
loads: with only the grapes of the condition required being harvested at just
the right time of growth at each harvest. The Monbazillac acquires its flavour
after 2 or 3 years and can be conserved for up to 30 years.
The dry white wines of the Bergerac, where a large part of its’ stock is
Sauvignon, and of Montravel, are spirited and fruity wines which accompany well
fish and fruits de mer. The mellow white wines, Cotes de Bergerac, Cotes de
Montravel, Rosette and Saussignac are good as aperitif wines and go well with
white meat.
The red wines of Bergerac and Cotes de Bergerac are fruity and full bodied and
can be consumed as young wines whereas the Pecharmant, another excellent red
wine is both vigorous and full bodied, yet only comes into its’ own well aged.
The Cahors wine is also a red wine, well coloured and full flavoured, which
improves with age, in particular after aging at least 2 or 3 years and even
keeps well for about 10 years. It acquires body and bouquet and is best served
to accompany poultry, game, toasts and cheese.
How to experience some of this during your stay in the Dordogne:
Night Markets
Many towns and villages have in recent years started holding regular night
markets. The name does not give justice to these superb events. Usually there
are a selection of stalls selling all kinds of specialities including food,
wine and eau de vie to be purchased and either taken away or eaten at the
tables provided, a very jolly evening follows!! Definitely worth the effort are
Sauveterre la Lemance -Tuesdays from 18.30 from mid July-end August, Loubejac -
Thursdays from 18.30 mid July-end August, and Eymet. Check for others at the
local Syndicate d'Initiative.
Local Meals
Watch out dor signs in towns and villages for the following:
Mechoui (lamb roasted over a pit)
Grillade (bar-b-q)
Repas Champetre (country meal)
These are all country meals where all the local people and visitors attend. The
set meals are extremely well priced including wine. You do have to line up and
queue but for the effort it turns into a superb event where you can really soak
up the French way of life. Meals are normally on the lines of:
soup
salad
steak/lamb/pork
haricot blanc
cheese
fruit
Often ther is also a special meal for children under 12years at a greatly
reduced price. The event usually continues with dancing and a bar into the
early hours. Great!
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